Kouryu Hanten: The Best Sanmamen in Town, and They'll Stir-Fry It If You Ask | Yokohama Chinatown

Hi everyone, it's Boss.

People in Yokohama need no explanation, but for anyone new: sanmamen was born here in Yokohama Chinatown.

Bean sprouts and vegetables are stir-fried, thickened, and piled onto noodles in a soy-based broth. Written in Chinese characters it's 生碼麺. In Cantonese, saang means crisp and fresh, and ma means to pile on top.

It began after the war as a bowl for the men working the port. Cheap, hot, filling. Today it's recognised by Japan's Agency for Cultural Affairs as one of the country's "100-year foods." A dockworkers' noodle bowl, now official heritage. That's a good story.

For sanmamen, it has to be here

Which brings us to Kouryu Hanten.

The thickening on their sanmamen is perfectly judged, and the bean sprouts keep their crunch. Eat it on a cold day and it warms you through. In winter I'm here once a week.

An order that isn't on the menu

And let me tell you one thing.

If you ask, they'll make it as stir-fried noodles.

Sanmamen yakisoba. It isn't on the menu. But say "as yakisoba, please" to Shamin-san and he'll stir-fry it without the broth. Then you pour on plenty of vinegar. It's superb. If you're a sanmamen fan, you have to do this.

The owner-chef is Shamin-san — the Chinese reading of the name Takaaki. His character comes through in the food.

Watch the video

Kouryu Hanten is a short walk from ROUROU. If you're stopping by our shop, give it a try.

The videos are on Instagram @y.chinatown_boss. Have a look if you like.

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